My friend and Chinese doctor Spiro, newly returned from Greece, was waxing lyrical about the food he consumed while he was there.
“We have included an ouzeri, because that is a different eating experience from restaurants and it is very much a Greek thing.” Ross Karavis
As a regular visitor to Greece to see family and to conduct classes in Traditional Chinse Medicine, the other major activity he undertakes is to enjoy the gastronomical delights of his country. In our debriefs he fills me in on the wonderful array of food and sweets he eats – both traditional and contemporary .
“Why can’t we get food like that here?” I moan, listening to his description of octopus meatballs.
It’s this oft repeated complaint – why can’t we get food like that here – that has prompted the Antipodes Festival to engage Ross Karavis to organise Flavours of Greece, a Greek food and wine festival.
Karavis hit on the idea of three key themes for the program – contemporary Greek cuisine, regional Greek food traditions and iconic Greek beverages – because he believes it’s important to showcase that there are people in the Greek food scene in Melbourne who are going out on a limb and doing something different from the traditional meat platters and dips.
“The concept behind this component of the Antipodes Festival is to showcase regional Greek cooking and contemporary Greek cuisine, which for a long time was not part of the dining out experience in Melbourne until fairly recently in our history.”
He believes it’s important to raise awareness that there are establishments that are going out on a creative wing serving fine Greek food.
“Many people both within and outside of the community don’t realise that there is a lot more on offer in terms of Greek cuisine.
And it’s important to promote that and of course promote that wonderful diversity of Greek cuisine that a lot of us know and love from home and family.” One participating restaurant Salona, is a case in point. Run now by the third generation of the family, Stavros Konis, Salona is a Greek restaurant ensconced in Swan Street Richmond that is branching out and serving what Konis calls ‘hard core’ Greek food.
“It’s not only our Greek clientele, but also our Australian clientele who are much more knowledgeable about regional and different Greek food.
They’ve been to Greece or eaten the dishes cooked by their Greek neighbour and they know there’s more to Greek food than dips and moussaka.”
Konis who has travelled widely through Greece and Turkey cites the many influences that have inspired him to be more creative in what he adds to the restaurant’s offerings. “I’ve grown up with Greek food, but walking around Greece I am constantly amazed by the diversity of the cuisine and I’ve seen and tasted so many different foods.”
Over in Moonee Ponds, John Rerakis who is considered a ‘pioneer’ who broke away from the traditional mould of Greek restaurants twenty years ago when he opened up Piraeus Blues, says it’s all about respect.
“I insisted on serving traditional food from Crete because that’s what I grew up with and I loved it and I couldn’t understand why Greek restaurants didn’t sell that kind of food.”
Rerakis says Philhellene which continues the tradition of serving Cretan dishes, is participating in the festival because it’s important to show respect for regional cuisine that up until recently has only been served in our homes.
“It’s an excellent chance for us to showcase the incredible diversity of Greek food from all over Greece. As for us, we’ve been doing it for the last twenty years. It’s good to see more of it.”
Karavis points out that the festival is also about presenting different types of establishments as well as food. “We have included an ouzeri, because that is a different eating experience from restaurants and it is very much a Greek thing.”
Harry Tsioukardanis owner of Alpha Ouzeri in Brunswick Street says he is honoured to be included in the festival.
“This is a relatively new establishment and there has been a great deal of support and interest from the Greek community, but it’s an opportunity to show the wider community the different types of eating – and drinking – experiences.
I don’t think an ouzo exists that we don’t have at Alpha,” he jokes. Karavis, a confessed foodie, says this has been a very exciting project.
“There are people in our community who are trying to raise the bar in terms of Greek cuisine. They deserve recognition and support.”
He is keen to continue working with the Antipodes Festival to expand the events in 2011.
Flavours of Greece runs from May 19 – July 27. For further information see www.antipodesfestival.com. au