According to mythology, Aristaios, son of Apollo and the huntress Cyrene, was taught how to keep bees and produce honey, make the trees grow juicy olives, but most importantly, how to curdle milk for cheese. Although a minor God in mythology, Aristaios was forever known as the God of cheese-making. And cheese he taught the Greeks to make. W
hen you think Greek cheese, you think feta. The term feta itself has a protected designation of origin which means that feta needs to exclusively have been made from sheep’s or goat’s milk and, just like champagne in France, feta needs to be produced in Greece. But what is lesser known are the plethora of cheeses Greece produces for a number of uses in Hellenic cuisine. With so many techniques available in Greek cooking, all different types and textures of cheeses have their role to play. And all these different cheeses are eaten in their own way depending on the flavour hit. And with Greece being a major exporter of cheese, now is a great time to help a country by buying Greek.
Feta
This brined curds cheese is, as discussed, the most famous of Greek cheeses and has fast become a staple cheese in the Australian diet. Feta in Greek cuisine has many uses for both savoury and sweet dishes. Traditionally made from sheep’s milk, the cheese is stored in wooden barrels of brine and left to mature for two months. Feta is a cheese that can be served alone drizzled with olive oil and some dried oregano, can be crumbled in pies such as spanakopita, used in salads, as the hero of breakfast dishes – either in omelettes or on toast with avocado – or serve it up after dinner with some watermelon.
Haloumi
A traditional Cypriot cheese, this is also popular around the Middle East and used in their cuisines. The cheese is made using a combination of goat’s and sheep’s milk but some can also contain cow’s milk. This cheese has a high melting point so is the perfect cheese for frying or grilling (saganaki). The popular misconception is that saganaki is the name for fried cheese but it’s actually the cooking technique used to fry the cheese. Haloumi is the perfect cheese grilled for a summer salad or used as a filling for a vegetarian burger.
Kefalograviera
Another cheese that can be used in saganaki, kefalograviera has had a revival in the kitchen. This cheese has been made popular again thanks to celebrity chefs singing its praises. George Calombaris swears by grating some of this cheese in bechamel for his mum’s famous moussaka. This hard cheese is pale yellow in colour and is predominately made by sheep’s milk and has a sharp salty flavour.
Kasseri
One of the oldest and most traditional cheeses in Greece, kasseri is normally served on its own. It is a medium to hard yellow cheese and is oily in texture. It is made from sheep’s milk and can sometimes be mixed with a bit of goat’s milk.
Manouri
Manouri is a semi-soft creamy unsalted cheese that is popular in the north of Greece. It is made from sheep’s or goat’s whey or a blend of both. This cheese is often used in sweet pastries and pies and is often served after meals with honey and fruit.
Mizithra
The way you cook with Mizithra depends entirely on how you buy it – fresh or aged. Fresh mizithra is similar to a ricotta in texture and goes hand in hand with bite-sized cheese pies or served drizzled with honey and cinnamon as a breakfast dish. Aged mizithra is sharp in flavour and reminiscent of a parmesan, so it makes the perfect topping to a dish of kokora kokkinisto with hilopites.