The instrument of the gods

Psarantonis, one of the most famous Cretan lyra players, has represented Greece many times in festivals abroad


Psarantonis is a performer who plays as he feels. No two performances are ever the same, the artist choosing to feel his way through each song. Each new performance sees the virtuoso create a new spectacle, a new song; he chooses to improvise rather than be confined by the structure of his notes and in this way has transformed the Cretan lyra.

This, he says, is what drives him. When I discovered I had the chance to interview this prolific artist, I was thrilled, unlike my colleagues who wished me ‘good luck’. It is common knowledge he keeps to himself and can at times be ‘difficult’ in media interviews; he would rather let his lyra do the talking. But the stars were shining on me the day I spoke with Psarantonis who – like in his performances – bared his soul to me. “I’ll talk, my child,” he says reassuring my fears, imploring me to be the one to tell his story.

He refers to me as ‘my child’ throughout the telephone conversation; me in Melbourne at 6:00 am and Psarantonis, from Psiloritis, Crete. Now in his early 70s, Psarantonis gives the impression of a simple man – spontaneous, authentic, a free spirit, who is affectionate, and yet a bold and brave artist. He plays the Cretan lyra – a bewitching instrument that has the capacity to enchant.

As a musician, he never plays a tune the same way twice; rhythm is a vital element of his music and style. It is the key. It is everything. “That’s how it should be done,” he says making no apology of the way he broaches music. This unique figure of Cretan music is characterised not only by the timbre of his voice and his lyra playing, but also the freedom and immediacy of what he evokes musically. “You have to find in the music what you feel. When you play with your soul, then it’s true. The trees, birds and animals love it, everyone loves it,” Psarantonis tells Neos Kosmos.

Keeping the Cretan musical tradition alive “You have the responsibility to serve the music of your region with respect; to take care of it, to protect it,” begins Psarantonis. Raised in a musical household in Crete, Antonis Xylouris’ family – his grandfather, uncles, his brothers – Yiannis and famous Nikos Xylouris -‘the archangel of Crete’ – all play and played music.

I find it inspiring that not only have his children followed his musical path but his grandchildren followed suit and I tell him this. The children of George Xylouris – Antonis, Nikos and Apollonia – and Psarantonis’ grandchildren, although born in Australia, are now playing alongside their grandfather. Just the mention of his grandchildren, I could hear in his voice his soul warm. “They are good kids,” he begins with a smile in his voice.

His grandchildren – who spent their formative years in Crete – were “charmed” by the traditions and music of the inspirational island and Psarantonis knew they would follow with the family’s musical suit. The Xylouris family in Crete live by their nicknames. Even in their mountainous village of Anogeia, unless you know what nickname they go by, you will be hard-pressed to find a member of the family.

And Psarantonis – like his grandfather who first developed the moniker Psaro – the names have been passed on to the next generation. “When my grandfather was a young boy in the village, he used to chase all the children around. One boy made the comment that because he caught all the boys, he was like a fisherman, catching all the fish. So they added Psaro on to his name Antonis and got Psarantonis – like me.” I ask him about his older brother, the late Psaronikos, a notable Cretan musician and known as ‘the archangel of Crete’.

His voice becomes noticeably sensitive, as he starts talking about him. It was Nikos who taught him the craft of playing Cretan lyra and encouraged him to play at the age of 13. “He was the best one of all of us. ‘Leventis’ in everything, he had all the good characteristics. “He was complete with his appearance, his bravado, his pride – he had it all. That man had charisma,” explains Psarantonis. Instrument of the Gods Psarantonis has always been in love with the Cretan Lyra, the most ancient instrument in the world.

In his hands, the lyra is like a beast only he can tame. He is a master of dynamics, taking the music down to a whisper before exploding in surges of energy. “The lyra, the drums – sounded by Kourites [ancient instrumentalists], and the flute, were the most ancient of instruments. Orpheus and Apollo played the lyra… it’s the instrument of gods,” says Psarantonis, Music to him is more important than words. And Psarantonis gets inspiration by watching other artists perform their craft. He is drawn to their energy, their expression not the pitch or quality of voice.

“Music is the pulse. The pulse, the rhythm begets us and eats us too,” he quips. “The rhythm is in the air, otherwise it doesn’t exist. Even the sea has rhythm, otherwise everything is dead. That’s life. Nature is alive; with the rhythm of nature allowing everything to flow.” The body of traditional music that Psarantonis creates within is vast.

But what does it mean to him, keeping the Cretan musical traditions alive, and fitting into the mould and structures of traditional sounds? “Tradition is the root. Without roots we can’t have leaves, or fruit,” he says directly. “Tradition is art, it’s strength, and it stays forever. The tradition of every people says it all. It is always present. The art – difficult and beautiful at the same time – is tradition.” “There are hundreds of youngsters who play Cretan lyra in Crete today. Hundreds, my child, that never existed before. What does this say? They listen, they learn about their birth place, their heritage.” I ask him about Crete.

Realistic and modest, he says that although it is a unique island, the tradition and history of every nation is unique. “It’s not only us who have the tradition, all people have it. When the musician, of course, ‘plays’ the tradition, everyone likes it.” The inspiration of Psarantonis Nature and sounds that surround him every day inspire this artist. “You must live in Psiloritis, to see and live the nature. To talk to her, to give her, nature to give to you,” he implores. “Nature has it all – the music and the rhythm.

The wind with its pace plays with her; the sea as well. And when you see the mountains and the plains – inspiration comes to you. “You hear and learn sounds, from the nature. When you hear the trees, the birds, all of them are singing,” Psarantonis explains. And just as I am about to ask another question, he interrupts mid-sentence for something important. “I have to tell you this,” he starts excitedly, “the birds sing better than us, clearer than we do. And if they hear us talking, they think we roar,” he says convincingly. Around the world with Cretan music Psarantonis, one of the most famous Cretan lyra players, has represented Greece many times in festivals abroad.

His lyra is now on display in The World’s First Global Musical Instrument Museum, in USA. He is proud that thanks to himself and his music, among other musicians, Cretan music was heard in the most remote parts of the globe. Yet, he remains humble, because, as he says, there is no other way – a musician must always carry his musical identity with him. “I’m proud, because the musician must always show his identity – where he comes from, and what his birthplace has to offer. That is how it should be, and I’m pleased that I’ve actually been to all these festivals around the world, where musicians come from all parts of the world. “I represent Greece, and the island of Crete. And while there, we learn about our own history, as we don’t know it very well,” says Psarantonis symbolically.

Psarantonis plays WOMADelaide March 8-11 with his son George and Dirty Three drummer Jim White, for more information and tickets visit www.womadelaide.com.au/. Psarantonis is also playing Golden Plains Festival on Saturday 9 March, for more information and tickets visit http://goldenplains.com.au/