Hidden jewels of Steni

Andreas C Chrysafis walks us through the historic Museum of Steni; in the picturesque Cypriot town of the same name


One may ask: what is so special about this museum? The answer to that is simple; it was built with love, by special people with a special vision, pride in their rich inheritance and stamina to battle against all odds

Searching for a rare jewel can be an impossibly laborious task. It demands the persistence and complete dedication of persons with strong stamina and a dedicated mind to cut through the endless obstacles faced on the way. But when the jewels finally come into view, the thrill and rewarding experience of achievement can be priceless.
One such rare treasure is well-hidden in a picturesque but timeless little village perched on a sloping hillside about six kilometres away from Polis Chrysochous. It is the quaint village of Steni.
This lovely little place can be found by driving along a colonnade of tall cypress trees dotted with clusters of colourful oleanders and masses of brilliantly coloured bougainvillea. Snaking along the way, striking stonewalls lead directly to the village square – also clad with local stones. Alongside the vast square sits the council building, but the hidden treasure lies right next door to it; the Museum of Steni.
One may ask: what is so special about this museum? The answer to that is simple; it was built with love, by special people with a special vision, pride in their rich inheritance and stamina to battle against all odds. Fortunately for us, such extraordinary people do surprisingly still exist today to make good things happen. It took stubbornness and super-human strength to fight off a stifling negative bureaucracy and opposition before this wonderful dream became a reality so a new generation of Cypriots, visitors and tourists can enjoy this charming and quaint museum.
If only stones could speak, what would they say? They would tell a story of frustration, anger, dreams, ambition and most of all of the love of a dedicated man named Ilias, his family and cousin Savvas, who made a dream came true; it was certainly not due to government enthusiasm nor the cultural ministry’s support, and it was certainly not due to the over-bloated Cyprus Tourist Organization. They actively opposed the project and still refuse to offer it their official recognition or any financial assistance because of political self-interest and petty bureaucracy.
It all started a long time ago with a dream; a dream to create something positive and a lasting landmark for the community.
Ilias and Savvas migrated abroad after the EOKA uprising (1955-1960) came to an end, and they settled in the United States. While living there the dream was slowly nurtured bit by bit by the families left behind who, under Ilia’s instructions, began collecting rare artefacts from the locals and the surrounding villages. That task started with fervour thirty years ago and continues to this day.
The gathering of rare artefacts from everyday life used in village households, along with crudely made tools for farming soon grew into a vast collection. Some of those artefacts on display represent a bygone era of rural subsistence and are certainly rare (if not impossible nowadays) to locate; at least they found a safe home at the Museum of Steni.
Visiting the museum, one is instantly received by the gracious smiling face and genuine welcome of one of the two elderly moustached cousins. They take it in turns to act as guides and proudly show visitors their museum, which has taken over their lives.
Walking between the aisles of the museum, visitors are astounded by the vast collection on display. The beauty of the artefacts immediately takes one’s breath away, and one’s imagination on how people used to live, but especially how harsh life was in those days.
One is instantly exposed to wooden but strange-looking devices of all sizes, silk-production and crude spinning mechanisms, harvesting and threshing relics, animal tending tools, crude-looking iron gadgetry, traditional wedding displays, fine costumes and exquisite displays of hand-made laces, loom devices in full working order… the list is endless.
One needs to see this treasure trove to fully appreciate its beauty and, equally, appreciate what Ilias (also the village mayor) and his cousin Savvas have done to maintain this museum; Ilias actually donated the land while both cousins put a large portion of their own money towards the construction of the building and still support financially the maintenance of the museum. The government contributed 45 per cent towards the initial building cost of the community project, while the rest was collected from the local residents and generous benefactors.
Today the museum is open seven days a week and entrance is free. Since they receive no financial or moral support from any government authorities (not even from the cultural department) a donation box is available for those who care to donate something towards the maintenance of the museum – this is not mandatory!
What really worries Ilias and his cousin Savvas is their age; what will happen to the museum if they are no longer there? Since the government refuses to offer any assistance, they are very concerned for tomorrow. All they are asking is for an authority or a sponsor to take the museum under its wings and maintain it as part of Cypriot Cultural Heritage.
A visit to this special museum is a must; everyone will be pleasantly surprised by its unique beauty of displays packed with wonderful pieces of ancient artefacts. The best part of the visit is meeting Ilias and Savvas and hearing endless stories of the past; that alone is certainly a rare treat indeed.
* Andreas C Chrysafis is an author, writer and painter.