Even in the leafy northern stretches of this city, home to luxury apartment buildings, mansions with swimming pools and tennis clubs, the smell of wood smoke lingers everywhere at night.
In her fourth-floor apartment here, Valy Pantelemidou, 37, a speech therapist, is, like many other Greeks, trying to save money on heating oil by using her fireplace to stay warm.
Unemployment is at a record high of 26.8 per cent in Greece, and many people have had their salaries and pensions cut, but those are not the main reasons so few residents here can afford heating oil. In the fall, the Greek government raised the taxes on heating oil by 450 per cent.
Overnight, the price of heating a small apartment for the winter shot up to about $1,900 from $1,300. “At the beginning of autumn, it was the biggest topic with all my friends: How are we going to heat our places?” said Ms Pantelemidou, who has had to lower her fees to keep clients. “Now, when I am out walking the dog, I see people with bags picking up sticks. In this neighbourhood, really.”
In raising the taxes, government officials hoped not just to increase revenue but also to equalize taxes on heating oil and diesel, to cut down on the illegal practice of selling cheaper heating oil as diesel fuel. But the effort, which many Greeks dismiss as a cruel stupidity, appears to have backfired in more than one way.
For one thing, the government seems to be losing money on the measure. Many Greeks, like Ms Pantelemidou, are simply not buying any heating oil this year. Sales in the last quarter of 2012 plunged 70 per cent from a year earlier, according to official figures.
So while the government has collected more than $63 million in new tax revenue, it appears to have lost far more – about $190 million, according to an association of Greek oil suppliers – in revenue from sales taxes on the oil.
Meanwhile, many Greeks are suffering from the cold. In one recent survey by Epaminondas Panas, who leads the statistics department at the Athens University of Economics and Business, nearly 80 per cent of respondents in northern Greece said they could not afford to heat their homes properly.
The return to wood burning is also taking a toll on the environment. Illegal logging in national parks is on the rise, and there are reports of late-night thefts of trees and limbs from city parks in Athens, including the disappearance of the olive tree planted where Plato is said to have gone to study in the shade.
At the same time, the smoke from the burning of wood – and often just about anything else that will catch fire – has caused spikes in air pollution that worry health officials. On some nights, the smog is clearly visible above Thessaloniki, Greece’s second-largest city, and in Athens, where particulate matter has been measured at three times the normal levels.
“Places that in 2008 wouldn’t even think about using their fireplaces for heating, now they are obliged to do so,” said Stefanos Sabatakakis, a health supervisor with the Hellenic Centre for Disease Control and Prevention. He said the rise in pollution could cause eye irritation and headaches in the short term and far more serious problems in the long term. The air is particularly bad for asthma sufferers.
The agency has asked that anyone who is lighting living-room fires just for the aesthetics give them up. It has also uploaded information on its website about what not to burn – anything that is painted or lacquered, for instance. But in these times, Mr Sabatakakis acknowledged, people are not that picky.
Government officials say it is too early to judge the new tax. The winter is not yet over. It has not been particularly cold, they say, and many people may have stocked up on fuel oil last season. In the north of Greece, temperatures often dip to freezing at night, while in Athens they are more likely to stay in the low 40s.
“This is a very complex environment,” said Harry Theoharis, the secretary general of the Ministry of Finance, adding that many factors were affecting people’s behaviour. “It is not easy to isolate and say: ‘Okay, this tax, this is the effect it had.'”
He said there were no clear indications yet that the tax had discouraged illicit sales of heating oil as diesel, though he had detected a slight change in buying patterns that might indicate some change.
* Dimitris Bounias and Nikolia Apostolou contributed to reporting. This article was first published in The New York Times.