Leros was a gift to civilisation. The island paradise is surrounded by stunning beaches washed by turquoise waters, and replete with idyllic bays.

My recent visit to God’s playground was my second.

Painting by Leros’s numbers

I first arrived here as island hopper in 2007 when I had long hair and abs and a hot girlfriend. Much has changed since. I no longer have a hot girlfriend, my abs replaced with a fun park and my long hair, well, the long hair is there, along with my thirst to visit islands.

I intended to follow the footsteps and paintbrush of my father. Angelo Cotsis had lived here in 1960 where he was taught to paint. His recollection of warm people, fresh food and a few Italian buildings remain imprinted in his memory. My Dad reminds me that the Italians did not technically relinquish control of the Dodecanese, which includes Leros, until 1948. Today, there are some elders who can still speak some Italian.

Unlike my first trip, and that of my Dad’s, I arrived by a small plane from Athens. As usual, the taxi driver became my instant information point – Leros AI – and someone I would bump into around the island daily on my scooter.

Locals are Leros’s AI

The island is home to 8000 residents, with just a few main roads that all inevitably intersect through the villages around the main summer town of Agia Marina. You meet people and hope to politely not see them again, yet the next day you will no doubt see them somewhere on the island. One chap would share beers with me – I don’t drink beers which meant that awkward moment of hiding the alcohol, or spilling it. Spilling beer is my only drinking problem.

The bloke works on a tour boat where I met him and other crew members as we visited about six small islands close to Leros, including Farmakonisi which is casa to 21 people. Nearby, the white of Aspronisia is breathtaking. Technically several rocky islets that converge at a white sand bank. The boat pulls up and you feel like Fiji meets feta. For those looking for a Facebook or Tinder picture moment, this is surely it.

Leros is a leader in yacht and boat building. The more I explored the island, the more I found boatyards, which is a genuine income generator. Wine is also a money maker and I circled the island for days looking for the wine roads. Daily I became distracted by the brilliant blue bays, small tavernas and a smiling reassuring populace.

Looking for the vineyard

I eventually found a vineyard near the “wine roads,” and as someone who doesn’t drink wine either, I had to feign interest. This is my “drinking problem” as I can only drink Lesvos ouzo in moderation, nothing else. My father only drank ouzo back then too, still does on occasion.

Wherever you are in the main town or harbour, you will look up and see the castle from the Knights of St John era. It was built on a Byzantine fortress. The view from the castle precinct reminds any visitor that Leros was designed by higher beings as it is spectacular. One can imagine it being impregnable during the medieval era by invaders, pirates or wine drinkers.

Some of the towns which I stopped in for a local feed and a soft drink, include Lakki, and yes, I was lucky, as it led me to the church islet of Agios Isodoros. On my first trip to Leros, I was with my then said hot girlfriend and we were looking for that one unique church to get married in. We did find one on Telendos but the priest had passed away, an unfortunate omen. Ironically, had we seen Agios Isodoros, history and indeed my own history would have changed. I would probably be stuck on military duty on Lesvos or running around with ten children! Instead, I now travel and run from domestic bliss.

More gems

Other gems, include Panteli which is good for fishing, Vromolithos Beach, Partheni near the airport and Alinda. The latter is a true spot for the romantics and sightseers. Nearby is Krufos beach. Somewhat difficult to reach. Between the two areas you will find more spectacular views and a church. I particularly loved how couples kept asking me for advice on where to go and what to experience. I lit a candle in the church and forgot my Elvis wallet there. A few hours later I returned, and it was still there, Elvis had not left the building. So were the many couples who had asked me for advice. I may have to print a shirt which reads, “I am not Casanova!”

Leros seems to have two decent athletic, football pitches. One near my hotel at Platanos was a cool place to walk around daily as people with walking sticks lapped me. The other a boutique ground sitting by the water of the fishing village of Xerokampos. Leros FC play there and I can imagine the village goats are mascots. I would play here if I still had sporting abilities or even act as one of the mascots.

Near the tiny island of Stroggili, towards the airport, Italian history buffs can locate the “ruins” of a watch tower and a military camp.

Remote and historic

I will probably visit the historic, remote and beautiful Psara from Chios, making it the 100th island that I have visited. I can safely say that Leros is up there, as my Dad Angelo enthused about. From the warmth of the people, the beaches that you won’t want to miss and to the ease of getting around, it rates highly for both of us.

The mostly white dwellings with an occasional Italian era building adds nicely to paradise. I believe that God knew what he was doing when he created Leros. A job well done and it is open for all of us to drop by for wine, beer or a swim in said paradise.

*Billy Cotsis is the author of Aristotle Roberto Carlos Smithopolous, adventures from Lesvos, Cyprus, Brasil, Columbia and USA