Thirteen years after hanging up his chef’s hat, Sydney’s Janni Kyritsis has been given a Vittoria Coffee Legend award for his “outstanding long-term contribution” to the food and hospitality industry.
Hugely admired in the industry, Janni has mentored many apprentice chefs over the decades.
The prize, part of The Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide 2016 awards, was announced on Monday.
Born in Kavala, Janni arrived in Australia in 1970 at the age of 24. After first working in a Melbourne food factory he met his life partner David Bradshaw, who encouraged him to train as an electrician and to pursue his insatiable appetite for cooking.
Learning English through poring over cookbooks, Janni was taken under the wing of Stephanie Alexander, who saw something special in the young Greek electrician. Alexander gave him a job in the kitchen of her Fitzroy restaurant Stephanie’s, where he became second chef.
Five years later he moved to Gay Bilson’s legendary Berowra Waters Inn on the Hawkesbury River, before travelling on with her to the Sydney Opera House’s acclaimed Bennelong restaurant. In 1997 he opened MG Garage in Surry Hills. Named best new restaurant by The Sydney Morning Herald, it won three coveted ‘chefs hats’ in its first year.
Hugely admired in the industry, Janni has mentored many apprentice chefs over the decades. In 2012 he was struck with personal tragedy when David, his partner of four decades, died after a long illness. Janni had been his carer in the last difficult years, juggling guest appearances and charity work to nurse his ailing partner.
Speaking to Neos Kosmos this week Janni said that his latest accolade had come out of the blue.
“I get invited to these kind of awards as an old statesman of the industry, but I didn’t think anyone would be giving me an award after all this time,” said the 69-year-old.
Three years after David’s death, he continues his charity work and cooks only for occasional dinner parties with close friends.
“I go out a lot. I go on holidays. I try to keep my lonely days at home to the minimum,” says Janni.
“David and I used to go to Greece every few years on our way to Paris, which was our second home.”
Next year he will return to Kavala for his 70th birthday. “Greeks don’t celebrate birthdays much, but for me it’ll be a bit spiritual, going back to where I was born.”
Janni migrated to Australia after his national service as a sailor, a decision he says was made after a Greek emigration official suggested he migrate to South Africa “where he could be a boss, rather than a labourer”. The idea of apartheid appalled the young Janni and his mind was made up.
“I wanted to see the world. For a Greek boy, Australia was a place that sounded exotic. I didn’t think I’d stay for long, but of course after a year I met David, and the rest is history.”