The ultimate retreat in Crete

Inka Piegsa-Quischotte has fallen in love in Crete. Or rather, with Crete.


Stressed out? In need of some serious R&R? In love with Greece, in love with the island of Crete? There is no better place to go and treat yourself to a week or a fortnight of tranquility, contemplation of nature, wonderful food and a chance to socialise with a handful of like minded people from Russia, the United States, Britain and Belgium, to mention a few.

And the air! Getting out of the car after your somewhat nerve-racking drive, your nostrils are filled with the scent of herbs and flowers.

The Mourtzanakis Residence in Achlada is a haven for those that desire to recreate themselves.

Sitting at one of the tables on the terrace overlooking the valley and mountains which form the shoreline of Achlada and Fogele, with the sun going down over the sea glittering in the distance, Marcos Mourtzanakis, one of the owners, reminisces, helped along by a glass of his excellent wine.

“All the land you see here,” he says, “is owned by our family for many generations. One day it came to us, my brother and myself and we were sitting at this same spot, asking ourselves what we were going to do with acres and acres of rocks, thousands of olive trees, sheep, goats and not much else. It seemed more like a burden than a benefit.”

Marcos points to the “very magical sunset” that gave them the idea to create something unique, “a place which would become a spiritual retreat for people from all over the world” and at the same time help to preserve a great environment and keep the ecological balance which makes their beloved island such a great place.

Born and raised in Beirut, having lived in various countries and worked in professions which had nothing to do with hotels or resorts, and with family members spread all over the planet, Marcos, his brother and his French wife Esmeralda, (also known as Smero), were no strangers to the concept of ‘international’.

Huge amounts of money were raised, only local designers and architects were commissioned and materials from the island were used to create the tranquil eco haven Mourtzanakis Residence.
Four individual villas are set around the main building. Each one is stunningly designed in a minimalist yet cozy style.

The ground floor is an open living space and kitchen, and an upper open gallery, reached by a wooden staircase has bedrooms and bathrooms with rain showers.

While rustic and seemingly far away from the hustle of modern life, the dwellings are replete with TV, HiFi and WiFi.

The centre of the resort is the main building with a huge communal dining room where breakfast is served, prepared by the charming Smero.

Guests, families and kids, many of whom have become regulars, pitch in to lay the table and conversation immediately ensues as plans for the day are made and tales of previous trips and excursions are shared.

There is a well stocked library where you can sit in peace and read or watch TV. Guests can also play with Romy, the cute dog which is the first to greet new guests when they arrive after negotiating a steep mountain road.

Smero loves to cook. When she came to Crete she admits she no idea about local cuisine, but, quickly, through the help of local women teaching her, she became a brilliant cook.

Today her salads and rabbit stew are to die for. Guests can either have dinner and lunch to order at the resort or try their hand in their own kitchen.

There is of course a swimming pool and jacuzzi and for those who wish to hike in the mountains or explore the Venetian past of the nearby village Achlada, Marcos will go out of his way to make arrangements or guide you himself.

His son is the local expert for Achlada, having explored every nook and cranny and is on intimate terms with the local farmers.

And the air! Getting out of the car after your somewhat nerve-racking drive, your nostrils are filled with the scent of herbs and flowers.

The herbs end up in Smero’s dishes while the flowers are lovingly tended all around the house.
Yoga courses are planned, as are cooking courses and you can visit the cooperative which provides the outstanding olive oil, without which Crete food is unthinkable, as well as the winery which supplies the elixer of the gods.

A beach day? No problem, head down the mountain to the romantic village of Agia Pelagia with four sandy beaches, shops and a breath taking shoreline.

Interested in history? Go in the other direction to Fogele and visit El Greco’s birth house and, right opposite, a Byzantine chapel with outstandingly well preserved frescos which seem to have been painted yesterday.

And the Venetian castle or Knossos near Heraklion are only about 90 minutes away and they make for a great day trip.

Given that the emphasis is on a family atmosphere, naturally no guests’ wedding anniversary goes unnoticed.

In the evening, Marcos and Smero will lay on a barbecue and a cake is baked and decorated.

Whoever is in residence, assembles on the terrace around the barbecue, helps himself to salads, meats and sweets and toasts the guest of honor.

Conversation flows freely in at least three different languages at any given time and after a few shots of ouzo you find yourself fluent in Greek, Italian or any other language you didn’t know a word of a few hours earlier.

Any subject imaginable is discussed under the star studded night sky.

As Marcos tells me, several friendships have been struck up at the Mourtzanakis Residence which last far beyond the holiday.

Inka Piegsa-Quischotte has lived and worked for many years in Switzerland, Spain and the UK. She was an international attorney in Spain and London who turned travel writer.

Her travel blog is www.glamourgrannytravels.com