Greece is famed for its islands — over 6,000 of them — yet there remain corners of the Aegean where time slows and tourism has yet to leave its mark. Oinousses is one such place: a tranquil, lesser-known gem near Chios that offers breathtaking beauty, maritime legacy, and an authentic slice of island life.
Despite having visited over 100 Greek islands (yes, I’m either approaching Homeric wisdom or Homer Simpson territory — take your pick), Oinousses was never on my radar. That changed when I returned to Chios for the first time in 26 years and decided to venture just a little further.
Getting there: No room at the Inn
Getting to Oinousses in the peak of summer is not for the faint-hearted or the last-minute planner. Accommodation is scarce, and room spruikers — a common sight on other islands — are nowhere to be found. After calling every hotel and guesthouse I could find, I was politely told: no vacancies.
Enter the “phone-a-friend” option. Thanks to a contact at the Mayor’s office, I was connected with Michalis Belegris, owner of North Aegean Rib Cruises. A natural sea-lover who looks like he’s stepped off a Greek movie set, Michalis, alongside seafarer George (Giorgos) Kamaratos, helped get me across the water from the port of Limnia, near the village of Volissos, to the elusive Oinousses.
First impressions: Maritime charm and quiet streets
As we passed the historic shipping town of Kardamyla on Chios’ north coast, we approached a town that reminded this Lesvian of Plomari — minus the ouzo scent. Multicoloured houses, a charming harbour, and peaceful streets paint a postcard-perfect scene.
At the first taverna I visited, I met Christos, who informed me that Oinousses has fewer than 1,000 residents in winter — a number that more than doubles in summer. Their frappe? Possibly the best I’ve ever had. It was essential for maintaining island energy.
Oinousses, by Greek standards, is a relatively recent settlement — with permanent habitation starting roughly a millennium ago by migrants from Kardamyla. Like its counterpart across the water, it has deep roots in Greece’s shipping legacy.
Maritime legacy and local life
The island boasts a Naval High School, a Maritime Museum, and streets named after nautical themes. A prominent statue commemorates one of Greece’s revered shipowners, and maritime pride permeates the town’s identity.
You’ll find churches dotted throughout the island, a monastery dedicated to the Annunciation (built in 1965), and elderly men chatting or playing tavli under the Aegean sun.
And in a surprise twist for this Sydneysider, the local souvenir shop sells mini rugby league balls — a first for me in Greece!
The modern square, compact health services delivered by mini trucks, and additional settlements like Kastron and Aspalathrokampos round out the island’s offering.
Beyond the mainland: Tiny islets with big spirit
Across the bay, Michalis and George took me to a handful of tiny islets, including Pateroniso and Papapontikadiko, each home to two or three churches. There was something magical about lighting a candle in these quiet sanctuaries surrounded by sea and sky.
One of the islets, Pasa (Panagia), even has a solar-powered lighthouse with staff stationed year-round — a reminder that even in the smallest places, life pulses on.
A hidden gem worth the effort
Oinousses is more than a photogenic backdrop for Instagram or a curious Tinder story. It is a place with depth — a proud maritime history, a strong community, and crystal-clear waters that welcome those who make the effort to reach it.
If you’re lucky enough to find a way there, ask for Michalis. You won’t regret it.
Watch the mini documentary:
*Billy Cotsis is the author of Aristotle Roberto Carlos Smithopoulos, available now on Amazon.