Sometimes we wonder if God sat down and planned out paradise, if so, Chios would surely have been included. The island feels like a perfect playground for Adam and Eve, or simply for you and me.
I first visited Chios in 1999 during a trek from Smyrna, searching for traces of my family’s heritage in nearby Asia Minor. I still remember the port officer inspecting the Turkish sword in my bag, remarking how impressive it was. I wasn’t sure I’d see it again, but to my relief he returned it with compliments. It was a gift for my Barba Dimitrios on Lesvos.
Fast forward to 2025: I arrived on Chios intending only a brief stopover before heading to Psara for its annual commemoration of the 1824 massacre, and then on to Oinousses. Both are reachable only by boat, or for the very daring, by distance swimming! Yet Chios drew me in.
Before long, locals began recognising me with nods and small talk. Weeks later, I even received a message from Pantelis Melekos, who had taken a selfie with Tassos Lambros and his wife from Sydney while visiting Chios. “Vasileios, look who I bumped into!” he wrote.
A big island with a small-village heart
Though Greece’s fifth largest island, Chios often feels like a close-knit village. I met Michalis Belergis on Psara, again in Chios Town, and later found myself on a boat tour from Limnia with him and George Kamaratos. Encounters like these gave the island a familiar, almost intimate feel.
At Mystikas, a quaint port facing mainland Greece, I met Dr George Maris, a pharmacist from Chora. We kept crossing paths, on Psara, where he introduced me to practically the entire island of 400 residents, and again in Chios Town.
His late father was a decorated war hero who fought bravely against both Italians and Nazis. George has inherited his father’s drive to serve, expanding beyond his pharmacy to host health seminars, including HIV awareness programs, and developing Chios-made health products now sold across Europe.
George embodies the island’s spirit: resourceful, outward-looking, and committed to more than just tourism. Like many Chians, he takes pride in local products, most famously mastika, the aromatic resin unique to the island. For me, cycling through the villages meant passing countless signs pointing toward “Mastika Museums,” a constant reminder of Chios’ enduring gift to the world.
Fires and resilience
Getting around Chios is easy, with well-kept roads through the mountains and welcoming villagers along the way. But during my stay, wildfires ravaged parts of the island.
I was on Psara when news of the fires reached us. Upon returning to Chios, the mood in Chora was remarkably calm, locals playing tavli and sipping frappes as smoke rose from the mountains. Firefighters, supported by helicopters and light aircraft, fought tirelessly to save villages.
From the port, we watched as helicopters scooped seawater and dropped it over the flames. Thanks to their relentless efforts, homes were spared.
I toured some of the charred areas, even getting close to active fire zones, perhaps my Neos Kosmos shirt helped with media access. The bravery and endurance of the emergency crews deserve the highest praise.
Paradise rediscovered
“Chios has about 100 beaches, it is paradise,” said Pantelis, who manages Aegean Sea Rooms with his family. He was right. Everywhere I went, I swam in pristine waters, ate well, and noted the island’s embrace of solar power and recycling.
Among the beaches that stood out for their beauty, comfort and local hospitality were Agia Fotini, Vroulidia, Mavra Volia, Komi and Ankyra.
In Chios Town, a hairdresser I met couldn’t stop talking about his village, Mesta. He was in a rush to celebrate his daughter’s birthday, yet his passion for Mesta overflowed. The following day I visited, and I understood why. Its murals and maze-like layout felt like a blend of Labyrinth and a Moroccan riad, mesmerising.
Later, when a tourist asked me where to go, I recommended Mesta. An hour later, she had left, and I realised I was still talking about the place!
Thanks to the Mayor’s office, I connected with Michael and George of North Aegean Rib Cruises. Together we explored the coastline, spotting secluded settlements, scorched forests, pristine coves, and elegant villas near Oinousses, home to generations of seafarers. Afterwards, they took me to Volissos, where Michael, part-owner of several businesses, spoke of his love for both the sea and his village.
As Pantelis continued checking in to ensure my trip went smoothly, I explored more of the island, discovering what locals have always known: Chios is paradise, rich in heritage, economy, and community spirit.
I’m convinced God takes the occasional holiday here. I did, you can too, and the people of Chios will welcome you with open arms. Mastiha will flow in abundance, the beaches await your footprints, and the island’s soul will leave its mark.
Mini documentary:
*Billy Cotsis is the author of Aristotle Roberto Carlos Smithopoulos. His film Greeks of South America screens at the Greek Film Festival on Thursday 16 October at Palace Cinemas.
