Château Margaux is considered one of the finest wine estates in the world, with its legendary bottle of 1787 alone insured for more than $225,000.
Although the company needs no further introduction to wine connoisseurs, what most people don’t know is that Château Margaux (previously known as La Mothe de Margaux) is owned and operated by a Greek family of migrants from the Peloponnese.
Born in Patras in 1915, André Mentzelopoulos, son of a hotelier, decided to leave home and become a citizen of the world. He studied literature in Grenoble and made his fortune through importing and exporting before returning to France in 1958.
In 1977, just as Bordeaux wines were emerging from a serious economic and qualitative crisis, the entrepreneur bought the Château Margaux wine estate, which architect Louis Combes had designed in a style inspired by Greece. The ionic architecture filled André with pride and reminded him of Greece.
Located at the commune of Margaux on the left bank of the Garonne estuary in the Médoc region, France, the estate has 82 hectares under vine, with cabernet sauvignon inevitably dominant (75 per cent) with 20 per cent merlot making up most of the rest, along with a smattering of cabernet franc and petit verdot.
While Château Margaux’s history and legacy stems from more than five centuries, it’s a known fact that there has not been another owner as influential as André Mentzelopoulos.
Under the guidance of renowned oenologist Emile Peynaud, Mentzelopoulos reintroduced the Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux by considerably increasing the selection, and he redefined the Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux.
The dedicated and hard-working businessman passed away in 1980 before he got the chance to enjoy the renaissance of his Château Margaux. His daughter Corinne took over the business as well as the challenge of keeping up with the extraordinary worldwide demand for Bordeaux wines.
In a rare and exclusive interview with Neos Kosmos, Corinne Metzelopoulos gives her insight into her family’s journey, the legendary brand and the enormity of the legacy she was left with as well as her ties with Greece.
Having studied the classics, humanities, political studies and having worked in advertising and retail distribution, do you feel that all these disciplines have helped your journey in heading the iconic, French national treasure that is Château Margaux?
Well, I am sure they have all helped me a great deal; I am also very grateful that my Greek father, who was adamant I speak English fluently -he spoke six languages-, sent me to summer camp in North-America. I believe it gave me a new outlook and experience of the world beyond Europe.
You have stated in a previous interview that your father André was a genius in having the foresight to purchase Château Margaux, which had been on sale for two years. At the same time, you have stated that he drank ghastly wines. How do you reconcile these two extremes in the eventual restoration of the Château Margaux and its success?
My father was a true Spartan and he worked hard all his life, not indulging in the little pleasures life can bring. Still, when he heard about Château Margaux he immediately understood what it stood for in terms of heritage, quality and world-wide prestige. From then on, he only drank wines from Château Margaux!
What is the migration story of your family from Greece to France? You were born just outside of Paris and lived in France most of your life. How important is your Greek heritage and how has this affected your upbringing?
Yes, I was born in Paris where I have lived all my life but my father, who was born in Greece, settled in France in 1958, having lived before then in Burma, India and Pakistan. I am proud of my Greek roots and my name; it’s so different from everyone else in France. I was baptised in the Greek Orthodox Church and, as a child I used to travel Greece with my father often.
My Greek heritage grew on me gradually; I am not only proud of my heritage, I am also convinced that I would not be the same person I am today if I were 100 per cent French. I spend every summer in Greece at our family home and I speak Greek.
With its story dating back to the 16th century, Château Margaux was deemed a national treasure by French President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. How do you accommodate the enormity of this historical aspect?
Owning and running Château Margaux is a unique privilege, and I always keep in mind that it has been there for five centuries and it will live way after me and my family.
How important was the contribution of revolutionary oenologist Émile Peynaud in the development of the renowned vintages?
Émile Peynaud was crucial in restoring the true quality of the wine. I believe hiring Émile as a consultant was one of the best decisions my father made. I was lucky enough to work with him until 1990.
In 2012 you received the distinction of Officer of the Legion of Honor. A French Order established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802. The Order is the highest decoration in France. How important was such honour that was bestowed on you?
I believe I owe it all to my father and to the magnitude of the fame of Château Margaux.
The youngest of your two daughters, Alexandra Petit-Mentzelopoulos, has joined Château Margaux. Do you see a family wine dynasty emerging and how significant is it to you personally that this lineage now continues?
I have two daughters and one son. My youngest daughter, Alexandra, has been working for Château Margaux for some years now and I have tried to put everything in place for a smooth and fruitful transition when the time comes for my children to take over the business.
How do you view the current economic and humanitarian crisis in Greece? What areas would you address in the political-economic areas?
I try to help as much as I can in Greece, especially in education and hospitals. I look after a number of things in my grandfather’s village up in the mountains of the Peloponnese, as well as in the village where we have our family house. I am a board member of the Hellenic Initiative, a large Greek American not-for-profit organisation that does amazing work in Greece. At this point in my life, I have decided to increase my commitments towards this cause.
The year 1961 seems to be a highlight year for the wine. Why?
1961 was probably one of the best vintages of the 20th century. The climatic conditions were perfect throughout the growing season and a severe frost reduced the overall quantity, which contributed to a lot of concentration in the grapes. 1961 is one of those magic Bordeaux vintages, and an example of what Bordeaux can produce at its best combined with its ageing unique capacity worldwide.
What would you consider your biggest success since you took over the family business?
‘Primum non nocere’; a Latin expression that means ‘Don’t do any harm in the first place’.
Have you had the opportunity to visit Australia? What do you think of the quality of Australian and Greek wines? Are there any that have impressed you?
Unfortunately, I have not been to Australia but I am planning to go in the future. I have enjoyed many Australian wines, especially the white ones, and during summer time, I drink solely Greek wines ranging from assyrtiko to retsina, which I am very fond of.
From an aspiring veterinarian, neurosurgeon, conductor and skiing champion, what would you advise someone contemplating entering the winemaking business?
You have to love wine.
American fashion model/actress Margaux Hemingway was named after Château Margaux. Did you ever have the opportunity to meet her?
Yes, and I have many pictures of Margaux with my father. She was beautiful and a lot of fun. I believe she also was a ski champion.
You have a penchant for junk food, i.e. burgers and fries, which – somehow – you recommend with a Margaux. How do these two extremes complement one another?
Well, I love being able to go from a hot dog with a Coke to a sophisticated meal with good wine. I am happy that I can enjoy both experiences.
What advice would you like to offer to young women that want to succeed in their careers?
You have to work hard and love what you do.
Is there such a thing as work/life balance for a mother?
I hope there is but you might have to ask my children the same question.
Do you think that there is gender equality in the world? How is this represented at the highest levels of business?
There would be gender equality in the world if women decided to be more competitive. Some women prefer to look after their children instead; a choice I respect.