Christina Kannelopoulou and her son Giorgos run the Mythodia restaurant, near the town hall, where the cook showed us her version of rosto, the island’s most iconic celebration dish. The recipe serves 4-5.

Ingredients:
1.5 kilo piece of pork shank, tightly wrapped in twine or netting
4-5 cloves garlic, finely sliced
300 ml dry red wine
4 bay leaves
150 ml olive oil
3 large ripe tomatoes, crushed, or 500 gm diced and tinned
1 tbsp tomato paste
salt and pepper
1 stick cinnamon
3-4 allspice berries
2 cloves
1 tsp dried oregano
3-4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 tbs dried
400 gm thick pasta

Method:
1. Score the meat and rub with salt and pepper, stuffing the cuts with garlic and oregano. Drizzle with olive oil.
2. Heat the rest of the olive oil in a large saucepan and evenly brown the meat over a high heat. Add the wine and wait for 2 minutes until the alcohol has evaporated.
3. Add the grated tomato, tomato paste and as much hot water as needed to just cover the meat. When it comes to the boil turn the heat down to medium, cover the pot and cook for 45 minutes.
4. Then add the allspice, bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves and thyme, cover the pot and cook for another 45 minutes until the meat is tender.
5. Remove from the heat, put the meat on a board, remove the string and carefully cut into one-inch slices. Place slices back in the sauce and cook for an additional 10 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, cook the pasta for 3 minutes less than recommended on the packet and finish off in the sauce. Remove the spices before serving. An aged grated cheese, preferably a Naxos variety, goes well on top.