Greeks are well known for the consumption of legumes in their diet. From soups to dips to salads, legumes such as lentils, split peas and black eyed peas feature heavily. Broad beans, however, are referred to as a labour of love of all the legumes. The preparation and cooking of them is an event in itself, but the outcome, and time spent, is more than worth the effort.
Broad beans – also known as fava beans and windsor beans – are one of the oldest legumes in cultivation. In Ancient Greece, mathematician and philosopher Pythagoras forbade the eating of any bean whatsoever – even more so the broad bean. Why? It is reported he believed the bean contained matter that the soul was made of. The idea was that the buried dead released their souls into the soil in the form of gas, and it was then absorbed by beans as they grew. Eating and digesting the beans would release the soul wind via the agency of the human body. The Pythagorean code itself restricted the diet of its followers, prohibiting the consumption or even touching of any sort of bean.
Even Pythagoras’ murder was – according to legend – connected to his aversion to beans. It is said that enemies of the Pythagoreans set fire to his house, sending him running toward a bean field, where he stopped and said he would rather die than enter the field, whereupon his pursuers slit his throat.
The broad bean has been linked to the ancient Greek’s belief of bad luck in a modern medical condition known as favism – which is more prevalent in the modern Greek population than anywhere else in the world. A rare and distressing hereditary disease, favism can lead to a form of anaemia. Apart from it being genetic, the condition may result from an allergy to broad beans.
Ultimately, legumes have a beneficial effect on our health and wellbeing. Broad beans are known to have a variety of antioxidants, reducing cancer risks and the growth of cancer cells. They are good for your heart as they lower cholesterol and reduce inflammation and blood pressure, they are known to improve bone density, and are good at protecting your joints. They have high vitamin C levels, making it easy to absorb more iron in your diet.
Broad beans grow best in warm climates so are perfect for the Mediterranean weather in Greece, however, they do not tolerate really hot weather. They are generally planted between February and March, and are harvested around July. The beans grow on bushy plants and yield anywhere between 25 to 50 pods per plant. The pods resemble pea pods in shape, although they are much larger and lined with a pillowy white material that protects the seeds inside.
The reason they are known as a labour of love is there is more work involved in the preparation and method of podding broad beans. They need to be shelled and peeled before eating. The outer peel on the beans, while technically edible, is very woody in texture and detracts from the buttery feel of the inner bean. And the reason they need and should be cooked before serving is because of favism. Little risk has been found from eating cooked beans, but some diners may have an allergic reaction to raw or unpeeled favas.
A simple way to do this is to put the beans in a pan, cover with boiling water, return to the boil and cook for 3-5 minutes. Then drain, empty into cold water, slit each pod along its seam and run your thumb along the furry inside to push the beans out. To double pod – or remove the thin skin that covers each individual bean – use your nail to slit the skin, then pop out the bright green bean.
In Greek cooking, broad beans are incredibly popular – but so too in most Southern European diets. They feature heavily in salads in Italy, served with oil, salt and lemon, and tapas dishes in Spain. Broad beans can also be added to pastas, ground into purees, grilled, or enjoyed alongside artichokes. Broad beans are also dried to have in the winter and made into soups and casseroles.