In the summer of 1976, I celebrated our American independence in the suburbs of Chicago. We sang praises for the great bicentennial of our country, The United States of America.

We talked about the American and British soldiers who went to combat in the Revolutionary War. All to create the United States. It was magnificent. Flags waved by the dozens, bicentennial coins were minted and we collected them in proof sets; everything was “American Pie.” The music was even nostalgic, with classic red-white-and-blue rock music and Elvis Presley was the King.

The overall feeling was “I’m a proud American!” What a memory, it was solid. 2021 marked another significant celebration; although, COVID-19 limited events. It was the bicentennial of the Greek War of Independence.

This revolution, influenced by the Americans, led to the development of not only what is Greece, but also the rest of Europe, with Italy and France all independent. Prior to 1821, Greece was ruled for 400 years by the Ottoman Empire and the Turkish Sultan. Many people aren’t aware that Greeks were oppressed following the invasion of Constantinople in 1453 by the Ottomans. Modern Turkey renamed the city of Constantinople, Istanbul.

St. Lucas Monastery

Although the 200-year anniversary and commemoration of the Greek Revolutionary War was last year, in the beginning of 2022 I came across this well written by Mark Mazower, a historian at Columbia University.

Mazower understands Greek history more than many Greeks I know. His clarity in presentation revealed information I was never taught—or even heard of—while growing up in a Greek-American community of Chicago. It took a non-Greek, to complete such a book on the Greek War of Independence.

Mazower provides a flowing narrative that makes the reading enjoyable; similar to surrounding yourself in the details of a Rafael Sabatini-style novel.

Because beyond his meticulous gathering of history, it inspires our own search for understanding the motivations, experiences, players, and outcomes of the Greek revolution against the Ottoman rule.

The book made me ask questions. Like, how did the United States revolutionary war help inspire uprisings in Greece? And, how did the Greek war change the landscape of Europe? Plus, which artists and poets and writers decided to dedicate their work during that time period to Greece’s cause? I decided to take a trip this summer to see some of the locations that played a prominent role in the start of the Greek revolution. Many I had never heard of before, such as Spetses. It was over 15 years since I was in Greece. After reading Mazower’s book, I decided to go outside of my comfort zone and experience these historical grounds.

The goal of this revolution was to merge the Hellenic mainland and islands, to free them from Ottoman rule, and to confirm Greece as a nation.

Horse-drawn carriage on Spetses island

The Greek War of Independence from the Ottoman Empire occured between 1821 to 1829, and was finally settled on February 3, 1830 with the London Protocol to protect the Greco-Turkish settlement. The Revolution wasn’t officially considered complete until July, 1832, when the Turkish Sultan recognized the Greek independence in the Treaty of Constantinople.

In 1832, the first king of Greece was assigned, Prince Otto of Bavaria. Almost a century later, in 1924, the Greeks voted to abolish the monarchy. Greece became a republic. Greece went through a series of changes in government from a monarchy to dictatorship, a kingdom, then with prime ministers, to a parliamentary republic, back to a monarchy, and since 1981, Greece joined the Europe Union. It is now considered a parliamentary-represented democratic republic, with its head of government being the Prime Minister (who has the most political power), and the head of state being the President (mostly ceremonial ). Along with the movement to become part of the European Union, the currency transitioned from the Drachma to the Euro in 2001.

The book launched my desire to learn about these monumental events that established modern Greece and Europe. I never traveled to the island of Spetses; where horse-drawn carriages are still the best taxi service to gallop around town. Be careful for scooters, which dash through the island’s charming village streets. They race by while pedestrians try to relax on a roadside walk.

Horse-drawn carriages help taxi along Spetses island

Spetses was one of three small islands (Hydra and Psara being the other two) that first got involved with the independence of a nation from “our Ottoman tyrants.” With Admirals from each island preparing Greek fleets, considered the best sea warriors, they carried virtues and reputations that frightened many. More importantly, they knew how to lead renegades through navigational routes and often dangerous waters. Islanders were reluctant to get involved because they were doing well in merchant trades, but it was time. Adding to the purpose, a sense of religious duty also intensified.

Traveling to the Byzantine Monastery of St. Loukas of Steiriotis in the upper mountains, a few miles from Levadia, we witnessed the site where the Bishop Isaiah of Salona announced the start of the Revolutionary War of Greece. The monastery became Rumelia’s beginning for the revolution. Rumelia is Ottoman Turkish for their conquered area known as Land of the Romans. I imagined all around the Greek lands, scattered unorganized revolts to liberate the Greeks. Surprisingly, small successes developed and the confidence began to rise.

Statue of Count Ioannis Capodistrias, first head of state, in Nafplion.

We sat on an ancient marble stone, and sipped a cup of Greek coffee sweetened with honey made by the monks, and enjoyed red-and-blonde striped strawberry cream filled cookies to complement the warm drink; both were delicious and probably the best coffee I’ve ever had.

This scenery reminded me of how the distant Greek regions rebelled amongst other Greeks. They grasped onto titles and positions, greedy to become recognized. They exchanged unorganized demands and revolts, their brutality against the Turks, clashing and fighting in water and on land, between different cities and regions. But, going against all odds; collectively, they managed to pull off one of history’s grandest defeats and change the future.

In the book, you will also learn about the details of the Filiki Etaireia (or Friendly Society). How they were the heartbeat of the cause to capture back their land and sea from centuries of Ottoman rule. What captured my attention is the substantial number of characters from citizens, priests and nuns, politicians, mariners, and leaders who would rise to fight for “Freedom or Death!”

Book Cover ©Penguin Press

During my trip to the Acropolis Museum, I learned about the varying occupants and uses of the famed Parthenon over the centuries, and that it was used as a mosque by the Ottomans (modern day Turkey). Furthermore, how Napoleon Bonaparte and the French Revolution had similar heroic endeavors, and how the American Revolutionary War (which occurred in 1775-1783) formed the Declaration of Independence on July 4, 1776. This influenced all of Europe, by asserting the independence of the United Colonies into free independent States from the crown of Great Britain; declaring the beginning of the United States of America. The Greeks saw this and were also inspired to take action for independence from the Ottoman Empire.

On our travels, we visited Nafplion, Greece, a seaside port town with much history. Nafplion was officially established as the first capital of independent or modern Greece in 1829. I always thought of Athens as the capital of Greece, but first it was Nafplion. In1834 King Otto moved the capital to Athens. (I bet many of you did not know this piece of trivia; neither did I, and I’m Greek!).

The Parthenon at the ancient Acropolis in Athens, Greece.

In Nafplion we stayed at the Hotel Dias, a quaint boutique hotel and the former home of Admiral Alexander Ypsilantis. I even stayed in the same room that Admiral Ypsilantis was living in during his time in Nafplion. There was history around every corner. A few doors down from our hotel was the site of the assassination of the first Governor of Nafplion, Ioannis Capodistrias. He was shot while entering the church on a Sunday morning, September 27, 1831. One of the bullet holes is still visible in the doorway entrance.

Mazower’s book also led me to investigate Laskarina Bouboulina, who was a Captain in the Hellenic Navy and was given the title of “Admiral” following her death. I’ve met a few stoic Greek women who could fit her description, but she was infamous! Even her birth was impressive, being born within a Turkish prison in Constantinople, and later leading the warship Agamemnon which garnered multiple cannons and towered larger than most of the Greek ships. She began her revolt departing from Spetses and sailing to the coastal city of Nafplion in the Peloponnese, where the naval blockade began, and soon went to other areas like Pylos. She was a powerful mother, giving birth to seven children and was a widow of two men. In the cause, she used most of her family fortune to finance the revolution. She also lost her one son shortly after the beginning war, in the battle of Argos. In 1825, just a few months after being imprisoned, she was exiled in Spetses. She was shot and killed by a bullet to the head during a family feud. What a life! I don’t believe she died a wealthy woman, but her giving everything to the cause allowed for generations to keep their heritage and establish Greece and modern Europe. This sword-bearing woman inspired soldiers, revolutionaries, writers and even artists. Her command was legendary.

Nafplion by night, the fortress of Bourtzi, a Venetian castle built in 1473, on the island in the distance, off the port of Nafplio

During the Greek Revolution, great philhellenes (people who loved Greece and Ancient Greece) came to the forefront. They raised the awareness of serious humanitarian issues, slavery of the Greeks, abolition of child labor and other cruelties of work, taxation and capitalism, and the mass population movements as refugees resettled complete cities. People from around the world began to take notice of the Greek War of Independence. One of my favorite poets, Lord Byron, and other writers such as Alexander Pushkin began to write masterpieces which highlighted the rich history and social injustices of the time.

The Greek Revolution, by Mark Mazower, is a revealing history of events and players in an influential war that shaped Europe. Among its various subjects, the book also delves into the role of Russia, talks about the efforts of Ali Pasha, confirms struggles on all sides, previews the siege of Athens, discusses events of Navarino and Mesolonghi, plus details the war efforts of individuals (Greeks, Egyptians, French, English and others) who participated in and contributed to the miraculous outcome against the Ottoman Turks. In the end, the brotherhood and philhellenes created a future of their own, as the modern European nation, Greece.

Nafplion port area viewed from the Castle of Palamidi Fortress, seized back on Nov. 29, 1822 by rebel Greek forces led by Staikopoulos, and later used as a prison by Theodoros Kolokotronis in 1833. It was built during the second period of Venetian rule (1686-1715), and named after Nafplio’s son Palamidis. We were told that you can access the fortress by climbing up the famous 999 steps; I decided to drive up the mountain instead. Both methods are picturesque.

I appreciated the monasteries, the islands, the seaside ports, and each of the revolutionary leaders who had no fixed plan, but made a choice, and lived with their consequences or advances. I don’t know Mark Mazower, but he’s a philhellene, and he’s made me a better one. This marvelous book documents not only Greek revolutionaries, but brings attention to others who co-existed for centuries. In a way, they knew the ultimate outcome was to become Greece.

Although the Greek bicentennial wasn’t celebrated the way I would have envisioned , I did manage to visit Greece this summer with a deeper understanding. As every March 25th has been a grand day for the Hellenic holiday (similar to July 4th in the U.S.A.), I am thankful for our heritage, and for the appreciation of the world to build a better Europe. Greece helped create an everlasting legacy that so many of us take for granted. One additional takeaway from the book is that I learned several things about my heritage. Greeks seem to have an inborn, almost genetic development for striving for victory—a need for independence, and the refusal to accept defeat.

Canons and bust at St. Loukas Hatzis Monastery, of the first bishop Isaiah Salonon who blessed the weapons and revolutionaries. While holding the cross, he led the Greek fighters to launch the War of Independence. Unfortunately, he was soon mortally wounded, and then to make an example, was decapitated by the Turks.

Mazower gracefully suggests this as well, “It was not so much their victories that gave the Greeks independence as it was their refusal to accept defeat.”

I highly recommend this book. Mazower’s presentation is excellent. His details, and the colorful section of era images create great stories of interest. It should be standard educational reading in the Greek-American’s home.

This book provides an understanding of the balance of a nation, created from a decade of uprising. There are other reference books on the Greek War of Independence, but this one is the most thorough account I’ve read. It filled in all the blanks. I took a vintage boat around the island of Spetses, and could sense the importance of the Greek navy having total control of those islands. Enjoy this captivating book then take a trip to Greece. Your visit will have a new meaning.

St. Lucas Monastery

Dr. Nikos Linardakis is the president of The Bêne Baby Company, a goat milk-based baby formula company in Nekoosa, Wisconsin . He is a physician executive and published author of several medical books with McGraw-Hill Co. in New York, and most recently a book of poetry, LOVE: Poems of Longing.