Melburnians can be accused of snootiness towards Brisbane’s sub-tropical languidness. And Greek Melbournians believe they are core representatives of the Diaspora spirit, right? Wrong.
Brisbane claimed a landmark achievement for Greek wines in Australia. Hellenika at The Calile – Brisbane’s leading Mediterranean restaurant – has just took home Australia’s Best Listing of Greek Wines at the respected Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards 2024.
The awards were held on September 30 in Sydney, which was the first time a special category for Greek wines was introduced. Hellenika’s victory is both inaugural and noteworthy.
The accolade came as no surprise for Simon Gloftis, a restaurateur admired for his attention to detail and commitment to quality. Hellenika has been one of Queensland’s top dining destinations since its inception.
“When I opened up Hellenika Gold Coast fifteen years ago, a lot of the inspiration came from my experiences as a kid at my godfather’s tavern in Johnston St. Abbotsford,” Gloftis says. Yep, it was Abbotsford, next to Collingwood, Melbourne’s inner northern burbs settled by post-war Greek immigrants, that Gloftis got his taste for restaurants.
“I ate saganaki and octopus there, and it introduced me to the workings of a restaurant” Gloftis says.
Simon Gloftis is admired for his attention to detail and commitment to quality. Photo: Supplied
His connection to his roots is obvious in the dishes he serves up, many of which are inspired by Northern Greece. His father’s hometown is Sitaria, is a village near Florina in Northern Greece.
“I love cooking; all the recipes are mine, and all the menus are my creation,” he says.
Gloftis’ meticulous attention to detail is intimidating – he is part of the new breed of Greek Australian restaurateurs, all with family links to the business, but with a mission to elevate Greek cuisine beyond the taverna without losing its essence.
“We fly our fish from Melbourne every morning, pick it up from the airport, and then write our menus.
“We don’t cut corners,” Gloftis says. His commitment to authenticity extends to sourcing bricks from Melbourne’s old Spencer Street station to construct Hellenika’s walls at Gold Coast.
The restaurant’s now-awarded wine list is the head birth of long-time sommelier Alex McPherson. With over 30 years of experience, McPherson has been with Gloftis’ group or 15 years and has previously achieved the coveted Three Glasses rating for all of them.
This year’s win for Greek wines was particularly special.
“In the past, I entered our listings for Best Listing of Regional Wines, but this is the first time they introduced the Greek Listing Category, and it’s very exciting that we’ve won it,” McPherson says.
The sommelier’s curation of the Greek wine selection seeks to balance a focus on authenticity, uniqueness, and quality that will accompany the flavour profile of Hellenika’s menu. McPherson emphasises the status of indigenous Greek grapes and wines, such as Gerovassiliou Malagousia, a unique and ancient wine brought back from near extinction by its winemaker.
The vineyard is just three kilometres from the sea, with views of Mount Olympus and the beaches of Pieria. A wine touched by the gods, with a hint of pear and lemon zest – the Mediterranean. The wine menu includes selections from Greek producers, such as Gaia, Douloufakis, and Thymiopoulos, from key regions Nemea, Crete, and Naoussa. “Recently, I added Thymiopoulos’ ‘Alta’ from Naoussa—a light, medium grape style that our customers love,” she notes.
The award judges praised Hellenika’s wine list for its “diversity and depth.”
“All the key Greek producers imported into Australia feature on this excellent list, and there are plenty of by-the-glass options,” said Judge Jane Faulkner.
“It’s a great selection that complements the Mediterranean menu beautifully.”
“In wine selection, Alex asks for my opinion about food and wine combinations, but otherwise, I don’t interfere. She is a genius,” he says. The award, he adds, is a source of immense pride. “What I took for granted as a child—the beautiful Greek cuisine and wine—bringing that to the public in Australia is still quite amazing to me.”
Looking to the future, Gloftis plans to stay true to his founding philosophy: “Continue to provide seriously high-quality produce on the plate with no compromise of quality whatsoever. That’s what I’ve done from the start, and that’s what I’ll continue to do.”
While Hellenika took home the prize for Greek wine, the overall winner of the 2024 Wine List of the Year Awards was Melbourne’s Gimlet at Cavendish House, crowned Australia’s Best Wine List. Gimlet also secured several other notable awards, including Best Wine List VIC and Sommeliers’ Choice Award. Other notable winners include Agnes in Brisbane, Monopole in Sydney, and Society in Melbourne, the latter of which took home Australia’s Best Listing of French Wines for the second year running.
Greek wine specialist Ross Karavis said, “Hellenika’s win is well-deserved, but other restaurants are doing great work with Greek wines.”
He noted that many Greek, or Greek-owned restaurants deserve recognition for their wine offerings and Three Glass Rankings. Karavis pointed to the Apollo in Sydney, George’s on Weymouth in Adelaide, which has Two Glasses, Ripples on Chowder Bay in Sydney and in Perth, and Mayfair Lane Pub and Dining, which also has Three Glasses. Kafeneio in Spring Street, for instance, has a broad selection of great Greek wines but did not participate at the Awards.”
Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards, established in 1993 by Rob Hirst OAM and his late wife, Judy, recognise the skill and dedication that goes into curating the best wine lists across the country.
Hellenika’s award highlights the growing appreciation for Greek wine globally over the last 20 years. It also shows the commitment of the new breed of Greek Australian restaurateurs like Gloftis to amplifying the bravura of a new emerging Greek cuisine spurred on globally and in Greece by the Greek Diaspora.
