One of the pleasures of following the Anzac trail across Greece are encounters with local people and their varied cuisines. This is one of the reasons that I love returning to Western Macedonia.
Many years ago I first came to the little villages that dot the region surrounding the Kleide Valley – especially Vevi which stands at the northern end of the valley and Xino Nero beyond its opening to the south. I was conducting some field research into the Allied defence of the region in early April 1941 which saw Anzac troops along with their British and Greek Allies face and hold up the attacking German army in a three day engagement which would adorn Australian battalion flags as the battle of Vevi.
I had walked the battlefield and the villages, gazed on the steep hills on which the Australians soldiers had based their defence and stood on the road where Anzac gunners, sappers and British Rangers had stood facing the enemy. I had visited the three local memorials to the battle including the moving plaque installed by Australian veterans on the Hellenic war memorial in the village of Vevi itself. Later I would go to the local hostelry – a beautifully restored traditional inn or xenone as they are known in this region of Greece – and its famous restaurant, the Kontosoros Guest House.
This month I made my return to this beautiful guest house and restaurant. The establishment is the creation of the Kontosoros family, their having began their service in hospitality with a local tavern many years ago before restoring the guest house and bringing the best of local wine and produce to its restaurant tables. The principles in the development were Petroula and Nikos Kontosoros, with others in the family joining in as part of the business.
It was such a pleasure to have met both Petroula and Nikos many years ago to compliment them on their achievement – local ingredients, the best of the varied produce of the region and the wines of area, especially those of Amyndeon. As Petroula and Nikos say they wanted to pioneer the promotion of local culinary cuisine by serving traditional recipes, cooked with pure local products.
When I visited this year I was sad to learn that Nikos had passed away. He was such a warm and generous host. But I was glad to be informed by Petroula that their daughter Iliana has taken over Nikos’ role as chef. She has continued the family tradition by adding innovative modern touches to her father’s culinary footsteps. We were not to be disappointed.
We were welcomed into the lovely restaurant dining room by head waiter Pavlos. The menus revealed that we were being spoilt for choice. As Petroula says the range of dishes on offer reflects their culinary journey, celebrating the best of the gastronomy of the region combined with fresh ideas.
Starters included Taltsenes (local spread salad with Florina red pepper, tomato, olive oil and garlic), an open leek pie with local pork , egg and feta cheese, traditional cabbage-rice with lamb sausage served with pickled cabbage and Florina peppers and local Aivar spread salad with Florina peppers and olive oil. Salads included a beetroot salad (combining roasted beetroot with goat sour cream cheese, rocket, orange and caper raisins), a chickpea salad (combining local chickpeas with pumpkin, baby spinach leaves, roasted red peppers, onion and orange vinaigrette) and grilled vegetables (zucchini, eggplant, pepper, fresh tomato and feta cheese). There were also a few small pasta and risotto offerings included Kritharoto (orzo with tomato, olives, feta cheese and oregano).
Main courses included Sout Makalo (fresh meatballs in porridge made from flour, saffron and chicken broth), Veal tongue with mavrodaphne sauce (served with lemon risotto, grilled vegetables and parsley oil, pork fillet with red pepper crust and sweet potato puree, beef bone steak with buttery baby potatoes, veal liver with Dijon mustard sauce and fries and Soutzouki (combining minced veal and lamb with pickled cabbage, yogurt cream and sour-dough bread).
The menu also included an impressive list of local cheeses, a selection of desserts and an extensive wine list, focusing on local varieties and wineries as well as those from further afield. We were overwhelmed by the choice.
When in doubt facing such a selection the best way forward is to accept the recommendations of the house. In this we were not to be disappointed by the choices offered by Pavlos. Our entrees were an asparagus soup that was to die for, so subtle, with small croutons, followed by grilled florinella cheese (from the local dairy at Amyndeon) patties with sweet marmalade – a great combination. Our mains were pork cheeks with chickpeas from Voio (with gremolata. rosemary parsley and lime zest), slow-cooked pork with beans from Xino Nero (with carrots, celery, leek and crushed Florina peppers) and a cabbage (from Xino Nero) salad served with carrots, apple, shredded walnut and white balsamic dressing. All those was accompanied by excellent local wines from Amyndeon – the Alpha Estate’s Malagouzia dry white wine and the Vergoritis Winery’s Xinomavro red wine. And of course, the tasty Xino Nero mineral water was on hand.
Dessert was an amazing surprise – halva baked with milk and eggs, topped with quince. The halva had a lovely smooth, creamy texture, a bit like custard. The combination with the sweet quince was heavenly when matched with our white moscato liqueur – not from Amyndeon – but from the island of sweet wines Samos. What a way to end the evening.
Breakfast the following morning was equally impressive – all prepared and served by Petroula’s sister Eleftheria. Here we were offered two varieties of poached eggs, one served with aivar made from Florina peppers and the other served with olive oil and oregano. These were accompanied by toast with an array of local marmalades as well as local feta cheese. Coffee and fresh orange juice was served.
We not only recommend a meal at the restaurant but we also suggest visitors consider a stay in the guest house accommodation. The fully renovated building has all the modern conveniences within the traditional architecture of the xenone – the stone walls and polished wooden floor boards, exposed roof beams and fireplaces. Moderately priced, inclusive of the sumptuous breakfast, a stay at the inn allows one not to worry about having that extra glass of xinomavro wine!
Over breakfast we discussed with Eleftheria the strong local connections to the Anzacs of 1941. She recounted how her late husband Anastasios presided over the 50th anniversary commemorations of the battle of Vevi held in the town in 1991 as Mayor of Xino Nero. She explained how a major commemorative event was held in the town square, with many military representatives present as well as many veterans of the battle including those from Australia. It was more than appropriate that I presented Petroula, Eleftheria, Iliana and all at Kontosoros with a copy of my book Grecian Adventure, which also includes a reference to the guest house in my chapter on Vevi. I thought how great it would be to screen our Greek campaign documentary – Anzac The Greek Chapter – in Xino Nero. Watch this space.
My mind took me back to my reading on the Anzacs who served at Vevi. Making their way north many remarked on the warm welcome they received from the locals, waving them on and giving them flowers. Many no doubt enjoyed some of the fresh local food and beverages. Private Syd Grant wrote home of the local inns where a nice drop of local brandy or wine could be enjoyed.
But when they arrived at Vevi and the battlefield to take up their positions there was no time to think of local food and wine. The weather had turned cold, with rain and snow enveloping the troops on the hilltops. One Australian soldier remarked how the serve of rum was little consolation for the cold. Another spoke later of how the Germans began their attack just as their first hot food in days was about to be served. The end of the battle would see the Allied troops begin their long, fighting retreat across the length of Greece.
As I stood in the soft rain on the road that runs through the Kleide Valley I thought of how brave these young soldiers were as they waited in the cold for the fighting to begin. One later remarked of hearing the sound of a shepherd and his flock of sheep moving across the valley, bringing a sharp contrast to the reality that would soon befall all in the region. I am glad that peace now reigns across the region and that its cuisine and wine can be appreciated throughout the world.
*Jim Claven OAM is a trained historian, freelance writer and published author who has been researching the Hellenic link to Anzac over both world wars. He is the author of Lemnos & Gallipoli Revealed, Grecian Adventure and From Imbros Over The Sea as well as Associate Producer of Anzac the Greek Chapter documentary. He can be contacted via email – jimclaven@yahoo.com.au
