Recently, a special culinary celebration took place within the walls of Northcote’s iconic monastery building, now being revitalised under the amazing Chora project. The evening brought together two of Melbourne’s well-known culinary experts – the inimitable French chef Gabriel Gate and Greek cookbook author Meni Vale.
The over 90 diners were treated to a specially prepared menu created by Gabriel and Meni, which combined French and Greek dishes and ingredients in beautiful fusions of these culinary traditions. What better place to experience these delights than in the beautifully restored dining room at the monastery? The white walls, mirrors, chandeliers and subdued lighting create a special intimacy for the evening.
The flavours of history
As the lucky few began to savour their entrees, Gabriel delivered an interesting talk on the connections between France and Greece, including in their food. Greek sailors and traders came to settle across the southern coast of France over 2,600 years ago. They would settle here and intermarry with the locals, founding the great city of Marseille and other coastal towns.
Greek sailors and traders came to settle across the southern coast of France over 2,600 years ago. They would settle here and intermarry with the locals, founding the great city of Marseille and other coastal towns.
Gabriel said the region – like much of Greece – looks out to the sea, the Mediterranean, with its rich harvest of seafood, while the climate ensured the supply of fruits of the land, with its herbs and vegetables, as well as the animals that grace the eating tables of the people. The parallels with Greece are obvious.
A menu of fusion delights
The dishes were served, with white and red wines. Each represented a delicious fusion of Greek and French cooking. The three exquisite appetisers were two croissant toasts, one with Taramamimosa and the other with avocado and crab, as well as a French crepe spiral with olives, all tasted with sparkling wine. Entrée was a Gourmet Olympic Salad with prawns, hazelnuts and feta Chantilly. Main was a Chicken Torte of spinach and mushrooms with herbs and carrot puree.
Dessert was titled Entremet Maria Callas, comprising baked apple served on a creamy Greek yogurt with raspberry coulis and pistachio nuts. This amazing feast was joined by red and white wines, accompanied by sparkling mineral water from Greece. Our table was soon discussing how we might recreate these amazing dishes. As each course was served, I was constantly struck by how well the unique combinations worked together.
Traditions shared across borders
Meni spoke, explaining how French chefs introduced many cooking techniques and dishes to Greece, which have become staples of Greek cuisine. One of these is béchamel sauce, an essential ingredient of Greek pastitso and moussaka but of French origin. Who would think of having such dishes without it!
Gabriel explained how – like many Greek cooks – he learned how to cook from his grandmother. The family, like many French families, had suffered terribly in the world wars, but cooking was some that brought the family together. He would help his grandmother prepare the vegetables, carry the heavy pots for her and watch her make the dishes without reference to cookbooks. As Gabriel said, cooking is all about love and enjoyment.
The Chora projects John Tatoulis thanked Gabriel and Meni for putting together such an excellent evening, with amazingly creative and enjoyable food and wine. He thanked them for sharing their insights into cuisine and cooking. The attendees responded with warm applause.
There was much discussion amongst the guests of the recent foundation of Melbourne’s latest Hellenic culinary body – The Greek Food and Wine Society. Formed on the initiative of Meni Valle, the Society aims to showcase the best of Hellenic culinary and wine experiences to both the Greek and wider community.
Meni Valle’s latest cookbook – Thessaloniki and the many kitchens of Northern Greece – will be launched on 11 November in Collingwood.
*Jim Claven is a historian, Neos Kosmos contributor and author. His writings have included how the Anzacs who served in Greece across both world wars experienced Hellenic culture and food. He can be contacted via email – jimclaven@yahoo.com.au.
