I just wanted to talk about the humble loukouma, but I found out there is nothing humble about this delicious morsel. But let’s start at the beginning, if that is ever possible.
In a previous article I mentioned that Greek athletes in ancient Greece were given small tiropitakia (little cheese pies) for strength and vigour. On the other hand, if they won they were rewarded with loukoumathes – deep-fried and soaked in honey and served to the winners as ‘honey tokens’. This little honeyed pastry ball is also called zvingoi, a name given by the Romianotes, the Greek Jews of the area who had been living in Greece and surrounding areas since the time of Christ, at least 2,000 years. The Romianotes serve zvingoi or loukoumathes during Hanukkah, which is very close to Christmas.
But there are many versions all over the Mediterranean and the Middle East and the Indian sub-continent. In Italy a similar dish is called sfigi di San Giuseppe – they are served on Saint Joseph’s Day. Italy also has struffoli, which is the most similar to the loukouma, as well as zeppole, like the American doughnut. In India and Pakistan there is the jalebi and the gulab jamun.
The Greek language has borrowed the word loukouma from the Turkish lokma, meaning a mouthful or morsel, where in turn they have borrowed from the Arabic luqmat al-qadi, which is still made in Arab countries to this day. I saw the lokma in Turkey when I was there recently in a village called Karabourni, made in the street and shaped like a small doughnut – I had eaten the same version on Chios just few days before.
The French have the beignet – a fried pastry very much like our diples. The beignet is sprinkled with icing sugar. The Portuguese have the sonohos, again, fried dough sprinkled with icing sugar and cinnamon. And we all know the Spanish churro, dipped in chocolate and popular in all Spanish speaking countries as well as Brazil.
In Greece alone there are a variety of recipes for loukouma depending on the region. And the toppings for loukoumathes range from region to region to what’s also seasonal as well. Most loukoumathes in Greece are drizzled with honey so while the fluffy doughy donut is hot, the honey will melt all over its hard exterior. Another common topping as well as honey is cinnamon – a match made in dessert heaven. Just before serving, the honey dipped goodness will get a generous sprinkle of cinnamon to take them to the next level. For a gluttonous dessert, add a couple of dollops of cream or ice cream. Ice cream and honeyed loukoumathes work a treat as the vanilla ice cream melts against the hot donuts.
Tsirihta is the name for Pontian loukoumathes. I am going to ask all the Pontian readers to excuse me as I could not find the authentic recipe. They look similar to loukoumathes and are covered with syrup.