Growing up in Nicosia in the 1980s, I remember those quiet summer evenings when the scorching heat of the day would finally give way to a cool refreshing breeze. I would often go for a stroll around the neighbourhood with my mum, greeting all the neighbours who hadn’t fled the heat of the capital and were sitting in their front gardens having a light dinner. All around the neighbourhood, there was only one thing on the menu, and that was ‘karpouzi’ (Greek for watermelon) with halloumi cheese. The epitome of simplicity yet a taste pairing that would satisfy even the most demanding gourmand. The crunch of the sweet and refreshing watermelon combined with the squeakiness of the salty cheese was the essence of summer. I doubt whether anyone in Cyprus at the time could have ever imagined the global status that halloumi is enjoying today.

Archive image of shepherd Nicholas Chammouta leading his herd of about 300 goats to pasture in the hills near Meniko, Cyprus. Photo: AAP via AP/Philip Mark

Halloumi is a white rindless semi-hard cheese with a compact elastic texture. While there are several theories as to the origin of the name, the most likely is that it comes from the Arabic ‘halum’ meaning cheese. While halloumi is likely to be much older, the first written account of halloumi production in Cyprus dates from the Venetian period, as documented by writer Florio Bustron in 1554. A later account from traveller Richard Pococke from 1738 noted that the cheese was already famous throughout the Levante region. The humble halloumi, as is the case for any cheese, was traditionally a way to preserve milk and to ensure adequate protein intake throughout the year. The traditional recipe is based on goat and sheep milk and its making became a ritual in villages across the island, with communities forming cooperatives that pooled together their milk and labour to create not just a food staple but a whole culture linked to traditional rural life.

One of halloumi’s defining features is its very high melting point, which enables it to keep its shape and consistency when cooked. So, while Cypriots have traditionally mostly enjoyed it in its raw form, it is the cooked version of halloumi that has enjoyed such a growing popularity amongst the Australian and global public. Just browsing through sbs.com/food you come across so many ways to incorporate it in everyday dishes, as a side-dish, in salads, or as a vegetarian meat substitute. Many celebrity chefs have hailed it as one of the most versatile culinary ingredients.

Archive image of Augoustina Nichola cutting up milk solids collected from goats’ milk during the making of traditional halloumi cheese, in Meniko, outside Nicosia, Cyprus, in 1999. Photo: AAP via AP/Philip Mark

Today, halloumi is the second most important export product of Cyprus, with an export value in the order of €266 ($410) million in 2020. While this figure may seem slightly insignificant by Australian standards, it accounted for more than 80 per cent of total agricultural exports by Cyprus in that year. Demand from export markets has been growing steadily and includes the United Kingdom, Greece, Sweden, Germany, Australia and the United States of America. Several versions of halloumi, mainly produced with cow’s milk, are also produced throughout the world. However, a recent decision by the European Union may mean that cheesemakers from outside of Cyprus may soon be prohibited from using the name “halloumi.”

As testament to the popularity but also its strong links to Cypriot culture and cuisine, the Cyprus Community of Melbourne and Victoria has held its popular annual Halloumi Festival since 2018. After three pandemic-interrupted years, the festival is finally back and will be taking place on 4-5 of March at the Cyprus Community of Melbourne on 495-497 Lygon St. The Halloumi Festival is a celebration of all things halloumi, featuring lots of Cypriot food (of course!) as well as music, dancing, and showcasing the making of halloumi along with some recipe ideas. Why not swing around for some chargrilled halloumi and also enjoy some of the other festivities while also learning more about this popular cheese? And if you haven’t yet, do give halloumi with watermelon a try!

Michalis Hadjikakou is a Senior Lecturer, Deakin University, and Board Member, Cyprus Community of Melbourne and Victoria.