When it comes to selecting a restaurant in Adelaide, it’s hard to avoid what George and Voula Kasimatis created with Georges on Waymouth, 22 years ago.

Twenty-two years ago, the street was different. A banking and business hub, that died at 6pm very night and lay fallow ill the morning.

Now, vibrant eateries punctuate it and have created a precinct. Kasimatis was encouraged to look at the site by the late Nick Lagonik. He started with second-hand furniture and an intuitive sense for hospitality.

“When we opened Georges, we didn’t have computers, internet, or social media, and certainly no marketing budget,” says Kasimatis.

“I’d greet people on the street and slowly we became a familiar face. They’d come in for coffee, which would lead to breakfast, then the next time, lunch or dinner or a celebration.”

The restaurant, now almost institution, began as “classic European bistro” Kasimatis says.

Walking in one another world would reveal itself. One could for a moment believe they’ve entered a bistro in Rome, Madrid, Melbourne, or New York.

“Our attire—black pants and vests, crisp white shirts and aprons.”

Two decades on and Georges has a new look infusing contemporary designs with a Mediterranean tone. It’s a place for all. Lovers, couples, deal makers, celebrants, and family.

George’s is also where one self-reward, eat alone, but never lonely with the choices on the à la carte menu, or an express three-course dinner – with wine. And all before venturing to the theatre, or footy.

Kasimatis has become a champion and advocate for new Greek wines by a new generation of winemakers using new techniques on ancient indigenous Greek varieties from “beautiful old vineyards” melded with South Australia’s world-class wines. Assyrtiko from Santorini, Xinomavro from Northern Greece, all new additions to what a substantial cellar of more than 200 South Australian and European wines.

Kasimatis and his crew are adept at pairing wines with seasonal South Australian produce.

“I let the produce and Cameron Coutts, our head chef do the work. Freshness, apex quality, and respect for the product, when cooking it, is at the heart of what we do” he says.

Spring lamb from the Adelaide Hills. Kingfish, and corpulent prawns from the wild Spencer Gulf. Seductive sweet Coffin Bay oysters – the best in the world. Rich, aged prime ribeye from the Limestone Coast. The liveliest vegetables, the most subtle wild greens from the Riverland. Followed by Greek inspired sweets.

Kasimatis pays finds the soul of the Mediterranean in South Australia. In its weather, product, people, and space. His teeth were cut in his dad’s milk bar in Canberra. His father instilled in him the ethos of hard work and looking after people.

He moved to Adelaide in the late 1990s, and Kasimatis began to work in iconic restaurants of the time; Citrus and the Green Olive on Hutt Street, Lungomare at Glenelg, Eros on Rundle, and The Grange under Cheong Liew. Liew is an inspiration for Kasimatis.

Further study at the Wine and Spirit Education Trust honed Kasimatis’s food and wine curatorial skills. Yet, it is his father’s “wisdom”, that Kasimatis says became his mantra.

“Stay loyal to your partners, suppliers, and community—they’ll stand by you in good times and bad.”

Kasimatis toughed out COVID when the world fell silent, like a dystopian sci-fi film.

“We did what we had to do to get through that time.”

He is keenly aware the economic strain as Australia emerges from the pandemic’s long shadow. States spent big to help all survive COVID-19. Now high inflation, rising energy prices – a cost of living crisis – where a bag of groceries costs $90, has impacted.

People can’t spend and restaurants are the canary in the economic coalmine. Predictions by IBISWorld are frightening – one in thirteen hospitality business will close over the next 12 months. Australia has around 36,000 restaurants – it will be nasty.

“There are moments when I wonder how much more I can give,” Kasimatis says.

He leans into the camaraderie of fellow restaurateurs – the other dreamers. It is precarious occupation at the best of times.

High risk and high investment, gruelling hours, staffing and supply issues, regulatory compliance, a constant need for cash-flow, and a need for some luck – make this ecosystem exciting and perilous. Nassim Nicholas Taleb – author, essayist, mathematical statistician, and former option trader – says restaurateurs should be given hero medals for being crazy enough to take such risks.

Kasimatis’s desire for hospitality, is now welded in his DNA. He still dreams for a Greek food venue – with all food and wine touched by his Hellenism.

“Family, my wife, my sons, my team, and our guests all inspire me,” Kasimatis says.

“I’m at a stage where, as much as I’m working 70 hours a week, I mentor and teach our staff so they can go on and do better things, and hopefully they can pass that on too.

Recently all it took was a diner’s gratitude to re-confirm. That thankyou was the reward. Like applause for a director. He directs, liminal experiences for his patrons with food.

“I’m a believer of value in ensuring that, regardless of who walks through those doors, they leave happier than when they came in. That’s key. It’s so very important.”

Adelaide’s dining scene is has changed dramatically over the last two decades, and Kasimatis was part of that change.

Georges on Waymouth is a beacon, a refuge, a home. It’s not just the food, which is exceptional, but the experience.

As Kasimatis would say, it’s about guaranteeing “that everyone leaves happier than when they arrived.”

Connie Kosti is a communications professional, in Adelaide, who has been integral to the development of creative and social impact programs across the state for government, for not for profits, the arts, community development and welfare. Kosti was the spokesperson and a board member for The Foundation for Hellenic Studies for over 10 years.